So, after a few minutes of play, I am ready for the next stage.I just want to see if this toy can be accurised and also, if it does not work, can I fall back on my original plan? At this moment in time, I have less than an hour to open it up and take picutres before my girls come back and well, wreak havoc in the room. So, let's have a look.....
As with any model or toy car, its assembly uses the Tamiya technique. i.e., thebottom chassis has the wheels and the interior cabin while the upper shell has the shape of the car, along with its windows and so on. To assemble, you just have to slide the chassis into the upper shell, pull the sides a bit to let it in, then bend the front slightly to slip in the lip in and this locks everything. Here, the technique is almost the same but because its such a big mod...er, toy, they used screws instead.
This is the first proof where this is the base car for all three DeLorean toys. However, right now, this is mere speculation as I have never seen the uderside of a real DeLorean. Still, in "Back to the Future II" movie, where the DeLorean underwent a Hover conversion, there are four spot lights underneath plus green rectangle running lights. This is evident here. And similar to the Aoshima 1/24 model, the red area is be where the slide mechanism will be, for you to transform the DeLorean into hover mode.
Removing the six screws to open up the toys is the easy part because later on, I discovered that it is not that easy to put them back again. And so, I left it as it is. I could not see any obstruction, though. Weird.
Because the Flux tube run under the car, they superglued the parts which made it a bit diffuclt to remove the chassis completely. So, I had to remove this black item. Yes, it is not transparent.
You have to do this slowly because the superglue is very strong. Amazing! Just six screws to hold up the toy!
Not sure why sometimes the images turn out this way but here is the underside of the bonnet. The yellow arrow shows where the loose nut is supposed to be when I unscrewed the battery cover. On the opposite end is the Mode Selector switch, which might or might not need rewiring when I put in the remote system.
Anyway, this is how the toy looks when opened. It is linked by 5 wires so becareful when you pull them apart. For now, I would not do anything with them but later on, there would be a set of connectors.
This is the rear of the toy, and as you can see, the circuit board is already there. It is underneath the square push button switch. And under the 'Nuclear Reactor' is actually the speaker's echo chamber.
This is the second proof. The words "Car 2" and "Car 3" near the unused copper pads meant the same board will be used for the 2nd and 3rd version of the DeLorean toy. When I have the time, I will probe the circuit to see if the black goop has been programmed with the sounds from all three movies.
Let's have a look at the car again, Here, the dashboard where I though was lit up with bulbs, I was wrong.
They were using two LEDs. One for the instrument cluster and one for the time circuits.
I am starting to hate them for using superglue. The plastic lens for the Flux capacitor is almost fogged up. I had to light this before you can see the detail.
And here, it is using a 5mm White LED. If and when I open this up, chances are, I would have to use fibre-optics to simulate the flux capacitor charging. There is ample space here, between the wheels to put in the remote system.
And I might have to plug that light leak too. You can see it just next to the activation silver rectangle switch.
Now, let's have a look at the headlights. Although the lens shows two headlights, in actual fact, there is only one window between them. And so, they need to be widened.
Again, I am not sure about the picture here. But as you can see, the green circuit board houses the White LEDs for the head lamps. They must be replaced.
The rear lens is again, like the front headlamps. Only this time, Red LEDs were used. The same goes for the exhaust vents.
Well, another circuit board too. This is great. Normally, I think, for a decent looking toy, no one would put that much circuit boards into it.They would just use hot-melt glues to make sure the LEDs stay in place.
Finally, thre is a reason why I need to change the headlights. Although I could not put the car back together but the throw of the LED lights are still way too high. The same still happened when I put it back as close as I could. So, this is not a good thing.
Also, notice the different shades of White on each LED. This could be the alignment of the LEDs when it was being soldered But this makes me more determined to change them. OK, that's all for now, until next time, take care.